Cookery Books of 2013.
Ahead of the Christmas shopping season Sheila Dillon reviews this year’s best cook books. Sheila is joined by comedian Stephen K Amos and food writers Catherine Phipps and Fiona Beckett.
About the YBF’s
“They’re the people putting food and drink back at the heart of our communities. They’re the men and women using lost arts and new skills to bring craft back to the kitchen…..Perhaps more importantly, they’re the people who’ve come to represent the best of British innovation and entrepreneurship in a struggling economy.”
Matthew and Jack were both nominated for Young British Foodie of the Year in spring of this year. Matthew in the food category and Jack in the alcohol. They made it through the heats and into the final which took place for Matthew in Viajante, Bethnal Green and 69 Colebroke Row bar in Islington for Jack. The food final saw a whole host of talented chefs cook for judges Nuno Mendes and Marina O’Loughlin. The alcohol final was judged by Tony Conigliaro and his bar team.
Here was Matthew’s entry:
Cured venison violin, carrot & garden leaves.
Rocket, chard, parsley, liquorice shallot, walnut, black cardamom carrot, anise white carrot, juniper jelly, wood sorrel, cobnut & lacto-ferment carrot juice.
paired with- Fermented juniper ‘Smreka’ drink.
Gloucester Old Spot pork belly.
Potato, buttered sea aster, pickled Bramley, beer pickled shiitake, coriander cabbage, nasturtium & chipotle crackling salt.
Paired with- The Gardeners Old Fashioned cocktail. Bottled.
Matthew put together his dish in front of the judges and the other finalists. He foraged the majority of the ingredients with Iain, gardener Mark Cox grew the rest at Barley Wood and Jack shot the roe buck in Somerset. He served the pork dish with a bottle of Jack’s cocktail. A pairing that has been reviewed by drinks writer Fiona Beckett here.
Here was Jack’s entry:
The Gardeners Old Fashioned cocktail.
Burnt Somerset oak, Somerset Cider Brandy, chipotle tincture, vanilla, bitters, toffee apple cake syrup.
This drink was based on the classic ‘Old Fashioned’ normally made up of brandy or whisky, bitters and a citrus twist. Jack made is own version that had its own ‘Sense of Place’ in Somerset. He roasted seasoned oak chips until they began to char and then added them to Julian Temperley’s 3 year Somerset Cider Brandy. He then added drops of vanilla tincture to simulate the flavour that comes when Bourbon is matured in American oak. Chipotle tincture brought a heat that created a greater sense of strength and smoke that alluded to an Islay whisky with the peat flavour of Laphroaig. The drink was sweetened with a mixture of caramel and apple juice in the form of a syrup that is normally served with our Sticky Toffee Apple Cake.
Despite Tony Conigliaro’s Poker face during the competition the judges awarded Jack first place and The Ethicurean won the alcohol category. Matthew came second to Giles Clark of Koya in Soho. Well done to everyone that entered the competition, it was brilliant fun.
Inspired by our Mexican partner in food crime Paûla Zarate (one-fourth of The Ethicurean) we have drawn together an evening of un-rivalled excellence. We shall lay on a Mexican feast (no burritos, they are not Mexican). We have written a cocktail list for the occasion and will be mulling a Mole spiced cider. Our world-famous Somerset Cabaret returns and The Barley Wood Mummers’ will be performing their newest play, ‘Albert and Anne’. We have teamed up, once again, with Jim and Leah Parkyn of Aardman fame who are building something dark and death-like.
Tacos al Pastor
Lancashire Quesadillas. Vegetarian.
Vegetable Mole. Vegetarian
Pan de Muertos
We welcome you all to bring photos and messages for your loved ones and friends who have died. We will have bright altars (Ofrenda) to remember them and we will eat and drink to their memories.
As with all of our seasonal celebrations expect unpolished performances that communicate the messy business of life with a Somerset backdrop to rival the Minack Theatre…
Tickets are £40 for the feast, cabaret and play and doors open at 6pm.
Cabaret and Play tickets are £8 and doors open at 9pm.
Dress code inspiration: http://www.pinterest.com/jackabevan/day-of-the-dead/
The cabaret begins at 9.30pm prompt.
Tickets are on sale from Tuesday 15th October.
For more details call 01934 863 713.
Following on from our sell out Wassail on January 12th 2013 that included cockle warming food and performances by the Barley Wood Mummers and the wondrous Lori Campbell.
The Ethicurean is proud to present their Summer Solstice.
Full price tickets include:
A Solstice Feast
Menu to be announced.
A Somerset Cabaret
Imagine if the Wurzels ran the Moulin Rouge for one night and then condensed it into 10 minutes.
-The Story of the Three Strawboys-
The Barley Wood Mummers will be performing once again after the sell out Wassail in January. This performing troupe are made up of a collection of staff and friends of The Ethicurean. They are joined this Summer by the creative minds of Jim and Leah Parkyn. Jim is a model maker and animator and has made everything from Pirates beards and fish lips to hundreds of Gromits’ for Aardman. As with all of our seasonal celebrations expect unpolished performances that communicate the messy business of life with a Somerset backdrop to rival the Minack Theatre…
2nd Drop Records’ Mark Gurney spinning records to the wee hours
As co-owner of the 5-year old critically acclaimed bass/ electronic music label, 2nd Drop Records, Mark Gurney has released records from a range of underground heroes to up and coming pop stars – from Pearson Sound to Jamie Woon. April 2013 saw the launch of Djrum’s debut album “Seven Lies” to widespread rave reviews from Mixmag, DJ, Crack and Clash Magazines.
The label receives DJ support from the likes of Jamie XX, Diplo, Ghostpoet, DJ Yoda, Rob Da Bank, Gilles Peterson, Gold Panda, Maya Jane Coles, Skream and many more!
Mark is also a music consultant, journalist and education consultant.2nd Drop Records celebrates it’s 6th birthday at Fabric, London on 19th July with Djrum, Randomer, Pedestrian, Onoe Caponoe and Markle.
For more information, please check the sites below:
The Grande old estate of Barley Wood has fallen into disrepute as the Lords, Ladies, milk maids, grooms and matrons have taken to the woods for a Knees up with nature. Imagine what they would wear and then wear it.
Doors open at 8.30pm for evening ticket holders- £12
IN 2010 FOUR FRIENDS set up The Ethicurean restaurant in an enchanting Victorian walled garden in the Mendip Hills, just outside Bristol. The ethos of the restaurant is a focus on seasonality, ethical sourcing of ingredients and attention to the local environment. In just two years, this inspiring restaurant has been awarded both the Observer Food Monthly Best Ethical Restaurant 2011 and a Michelin Bib Gourmand 2013. The Ethicurean Cookbook is a beautiful book that follows the Ethicurean team over the course of a year in their quest for innovative dishes, seasonality and freshness of ingredients. 120 unique and exciting recipes, presented season by season, reflect the best of ‘new British’. Most of the produce comes from within just metres of their kitchen.
The recipes are truly mouthwatering and visually stunning: Confit rabbit is paired with lovage breadcrumbs, Cured roe deer with wood sorrel, and foraged nettle soup with young Caerphilly cheese. The salads are as fresh as a daisy: beetroot carpaccio with honeyed walnuts; ewe’s curd and cucumber salad. And of course British food means pies and puds: pork and juniper pie, milk stout steamed pudding, Eccles cakes with Dorset Blue Vinny & sherry sauce. The Ethicureans are also known for their cocktails, making their own vermouth to create the perfect Negroni. They produce natural apple juice from the orchard that is home to eighty varieties of apple.
Over 200 stunning photographs by Jason Ingram follow the team and garden through the seasons and day to day in the restaurant and kitchen. Interspersed throughout the book are short sections on food history, traditional British festivals such as the midwinter Wassail festival, specific ingredients and key producers. Also included is inspirational guidance on preserving, smoking, curing and other techniques that make the most of produce and reduce waste. The Ethicurean Cookbook reflects the growing trend for artisan food and local produce and is truly an inspiration for how we should be sourcing our food and cooking at home over the next few decades.
Inspired by their shared passion for ethical eating and British seasonality, The Ethicurean was founded by Matthew, Jack, Paûla and Iain at Barley Wood Walled Garden, a few miles to the west of Bristol in 2010. Jack Adair-Bevan is a writer, wild meat hunter and mixologist fascinated by the curiosities of food history. Paûla Zarate, born in Mexico, is the backbone of The Ethicurean. Her previous career as senior legal counsel provides countless skills and the tenacity needed to support this sustainable venture. Matthew & Iain Pennington are self taught chefs with well trained palates. They focus on balancing bold flavours & culinary technique fortified with foraged wild produce. Since The Ethicurean’s creation the team has been responsible for a series of eccentric and delicious events and popups, from a Mexican yurt on the Brecon hillside to a BBQ from the back of an old ambulance on the Mongol Rally launch. They work alongside Mark & Linda Cox from Barley Wood Kitchen Garden & The Community Farm near Chew Valley. They actively support the Bristol art scene and resident artists at Barley Wood Walled Garden.
This years wassail was an absolute stonker. Thanks to all that made this event so special.
We are now closed for a couple of weeks to recoup after a monumental year. Our book is off to the printers very soon ready for launch may 16th. We’ve seen the final cover this week and my is it beautiful. We are ecstatic with the whole project. Thanks to all involved.
See you all again from Tuesday 29th January as normal.
Happy new year to you all.
We have to go all out this year. Its going to be a serious business blessing the orchard. A whole crop of apples depends on it. This past year has been the toughest year for apple growers in recent history and we need your help to reverse this trend.
Upholding a fine Pagan tradition a future crop is in our hands. There will be toast in the trees for Scamp the robin, our guardian of the orchard.
Cider shall be poured on the roots of these Victorian trees by a Wassail King & Queen chosen by the hidden bean in the Wassail cake fed to all.
The Mummers will enact their play in a circle of fire.
The occasion has never been so important.
This years ticket price includes:
A meal at The Ethicurean:
West Country Smoked Cider Welsh Rabbit (rarebit)
A whole, hot, Sticky Toffee Apple Wassail Cake with hidden Yin Yang bean.
Flaming torch procession.
Orchard Wassail Ceremony.
Flaming circle Mummers Play.
Live & very talented musicians:
Lori Campbell Live
Pip’s Human Jukebox
The Quintessential Sound System DJ’s
Warmth provided by our log burner.
Available during the late night entertainment :
Fully Licensed bar.
Janet’s Jungle Juice
Bath Ales Bar
Tickets are truly limited this year with many already sold. We have chosen to cap the event numbers to provide a boutique and intimate evening for a select lucky few.
Tickets are guaranteed to sell out in advance so act quickly.
6pm Doors. Food At 7pm. Bar till 1am.
Tickets £35. They can be purchased from the venue in advance by phone 01934 863 713
Return coach tickets available from Bristol with price to be confirmed upon final numbers.
The Ethicurean Family.